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It's pumpkin season and my favourite season, especially for all the curries and other comfort food of fall. Today's Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the combination of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a lovely flavor harmony. The biryani, meanwhile, is loaded with aromatic spices, long-grain rice and clarified butter, which give enhanced taste to the strata of rice and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around early October, so how perfect to celebrate than with a flavorful, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? If you like, make the spiced vegetable mixture component ahead of time and layer everything on the day you plan to eat.

Prep 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, cleaned and halved
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

First make the gravy. Melt the ghee in a large, heavy-based saucepan on a medium heat, add the cumin seeds, bay and cloves, and fry for a few seconds. Stir in the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (for later use during the layering).

Add the green chillies and ginger to the remaining onions, cook for a minute, then mix in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander, and fry for a short while. Turn down to a low heat, blend in the yogurt and simmer for a couple of minutes.

Add the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spices, then cook for several minutes. Add the liquid, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then turn down the temperature, place lid and cook gently for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro, then remove from the stove.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then put it in a pot with a quart of water and the bay, cardamom pods and seasoning. Heat to boiling, cook for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, put a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Ladle in half the vegetable curry, then layer with some the rice. Add half the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala, then add the caramelized onions. Top with the rest of vegetable curry, then arrange the leftover rice. Finish with the remaining ghee, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala.

Seal with parchment, place lid securely, then cook on the center rack of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so all the flavours infuse the grains. Remove of the oven, allow to stand, still covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the lid and serve with raita and fresh salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Hindi term "achari" refers to flavouring a dish using preserving spices, and the combination includes mustard, fennel, fenugreek seeds, cumin, hing and kalonji, but they're not used only in preserved foods. The blend also features in all manner of spiced dishes and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the cooking oil in a spacious skillet or kadhai on a moderate flame. Introduce the ground spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Add the chopped ginger, cook for a short while, then stir in the squash, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount liquid to the pan, salt with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the flame, and simmer for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the jaggery, breaking up chunks a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, stir well and serve warm with chapatis or naan.